How to on the Bustle - part 1

Good Morning All in lovely internet land.

I thought I would do a little first post on how I put the bustle together for you today. I used a pattern I had made up previously for a steampunk outfit (simplicity 1819).

Not the most flattering of shots but you see the original pattern

As it was for a rather special occasion I spent some time make sure all the seams where neat and tidy by ironing flat, then open and turning under the rough edge and sewing down again.  This technique probably has some fancy name, but I don't know what it is. I know what it's not, it's not fell or french etc, but it must have a name.

The original pattern has the bustle sewn on to a skirt down the side seams, but I didn't want this. I wanted them to be separate, who know's when I might want one or the other for some outfit in the future, and also I wanted the bustle to be more just at the back and the 'apron' part to go farther round. So I had to devise a way of giving the bustle support on it's own, and this is what I came up with..

I made a small back piece like a portion of a fitted skirt, not completely all of the back but about 3/4 of it and long enough to cover my bum and a bit longer. No exact measurements used here in my usual style of cut it and hope, but in this case it worked fine. I used a fairly stiff cotton so it would be substantial enough to hold the large amount of bustle material.. 

Next I gathered the upper section of the bustle along the top and sides and attached it to the part skirt. So now the upper part was like an upside down, large droopy bag and the lower part just hung below it. I should also add that I had finished the lower part's hem by sewing over satin blue bias tape.

 

To give the upper bustle shape and make the lower part hang properly I attached the bustle to the skirt back in a few places, centre and at the quarter points along the bottom of the skirt, effectively closing the bag effect, and then a few random places within  the central area to make the bustle billow rather than hang. 

It surprised me how few tacks I needed for this to get the effect I was looking for.

Next time I go into how I made the apron, and fastened it all together, but for now that will have to do you as I have other things to do. Oh and I haven't forgotten the other halloween wedding stuff I will get that up too soon. Take care till next time

Hugs and Kisses

Ally